London based German designer, Marie Lueder, became known for her her armor and knight-inspired designs.
LUEDER researches medieval armor based on the desire of shielding and a longing for spiritualism acted as rituals which they call mental armor.
The brand embraces amateurism. That is to say in relation to gender, bodies, idols, professionalism and emotions, so that one might be able to restructure and regenerate.
But for Fall 2025 she moved a bit away from this concept and instead … quoting Lueder:
“The collection is definitely influenced by my own search for confidence this past year, I spent a lot of time in Marseille and tried to find a bit more humor and extroversion within myself – less cocooning and hiding and armoring but going out more and also adopting a new body posture.”
LUEDER’s Fall 2025 collection, titled “The Shell”, was unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week. Designer Marie Lueder delved into themes of privacy, exposure, voyeurism, and surveillance, presenting a neo-romantic perspective that juxtaposes historical aesthetics with the raw energy of underground subcultures. A dystopian vision of identity, surveillance, and self-expression.
Drawing from the concept of “friendly stalking” and the experience of feeling confined, whether within one’s own identity or a physical space, The Shell reinterprets historical references. Elements such as 19th-century textiles, grand drapery, and intricate carpet prints are reworked with a raw, futuristic sensibility. The result is a vision that feels like stepping into an abandoned yet opulent estate, where ghosts of the past coexist with an electrified, rave-infused atmosphere.
Lueder is the epitome of the new-gen star: she represents her very specific community, the clothes are young and cool, but it’s also very wearable and well priced. And not to forget that most of her clothes are kind of genderless. Meant be worn by both, men and women. A fact that is becoming more and more a must-do trend in today’s fashion world.
The collection includes classic hooded sweaters, double-zip jackets with rib-knit inserts, loose-fit jeans, and sweatpants with sculpted seams. Have a look at the gallery below.
